Monday, November 24, 2014

Diptyque - Eau Duelle Eau de Toilette (perfume review)

When I casually tested Eau Duelle on a paper strip, I had no idea what kind of scent it was and was struck by how quickly I was drawn in. Sensitive to scent, I never imagined I would like a vanilla which screamed sweet and cloying. I immediately purchased a sample. 

Upon first spritz, Eau Duelle immerses you in vast and expansive vanilla, like a heavy fog over the ocean at dawn. From within the depths of this boundless vanilla a playful and sparkly juniper note dances like the bubbly fizz of a gin and tonic. Strangely, a concentrated sniff of my wrist imparts only the light citrusy juniper, but when I take a step back, the clouds of vanilla swirl about me and the whole becomes creamier and reminiscent of the delectable Licor 43. Finally, the citrus notes deepen and combine with the emerging spice and black tea notes, producing an Earl Grey tea accord before gently fading into the distance.



The heart of Eau Duelle features a lovely dry vanilla peppered with spices. Frankincense and cardamom elicit a warm and smoky incense which beautifully tempers the sweetness of the vanilla - like cinnamon and chili to hot cocoa. In the early dry down, as Eau Duelle melds into my skin, the sillage actually becomes stronger and I feel engulfed in its dark and spicy richness. At this point the perfume feels thick and for me straddles the line of overbearing - but I am particularly sensitive to scent and this only lasts for about an hour.

After several hours, Eau Duelle softens and lightens considerably. The spices mellow and the final stages of the drydown are subtly sweet and smooth - similar to the Licor 43 phase but this time swirled with heavy cream. The vanilla begins to slightly veer toward rubbery, and as Eau Duelle wafts around me, I imagine that I'm in an inner tube gently floating along a lazy river of cream soda. A delicious and relaxing end to a day-long journey through several fine beverages.

Though an EdT, Eau Duelle lasted through whole day and was still detectable in the morning with just 1 spritz. I'm curious how the solid perfume version compares in sillage and strength.

I'd definitely recommend trying Eau Duelle if you're a fan of vanilla.

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Clint's 3: Vanilla, Airy, Sweet

Clint's a fan - he likes the vanilla.

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My rating of Diptyque: 3.75

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  - X -  4  -  -  -  -  5
   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Eau Duelle as described by the Diptyque website:

Family: Spicy  Notes: Vanilla, Spices, Frankincense.

As described (in more detail) by Aedes:

Family: Woody/Gourmand

Top Notes: Cardamom, Pepper, Saffron, Juniper, Cypress, Elemi
Middle Notes: White musk, Hedione, Vanilla
Base Notes: Vetiver, Vanilla, Olibanum

Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin

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Have you tried Eau Duelle EdT? I've read that the EdT and EdP formulations are different enough to have their own profiles, so I'm interested to try both. If you've tried both - which do you prefer?

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