Sunday, March 29, 2015

Dame Perfumery Scottsdale - Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (perfume review)

Heeeeellllllllllloooooooooo! Just in case you've forgotten, my name is Sun and I like perfume :)

It's been forever, and I am so sad that it has taken so long to get another post up. Between some new in-progress DIY home renovations (they'll eventually get published at rustyfarmhouse), Clint's awful work schedule and my wonderful baby that hates sleeping (unless I'm lying next to him, that is), I've barely had time to try any new perfumes attentively, let alone write about them.

But, I wanted to get a review of this one in before the spring fully hits and this recent wave of cooler weather has been a perfect time to wear Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (hereafter referred to as BFMV) again.

photo from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale,
artistry by Jeffrey Dame's father V. Dave Dame.
While there's probably hundreds of vanilla scents I've yet to try - so far BFMV is one of my favorites. It's a little bit foody without being sickly sweet or reminiscent of cake, cookies, frosting or ice cream. Ultimately it's vanilla - all grown up.

The opening is big and plush, like a cumulous cloud of dark, rich vanilla. Some slightly sharp citrus elements (I smell mostly grapefruit) cut through the cloud like bolts of lightning, but they're wrapped in the spicy warmth of nutmeg which keeps them from being overwhelming and gives BFMV a really unique character.

The strength of the vanilla tones down a bit in the heart, and this provides room for the florals to peek through. They're not strong and I personally couldn't identify the floral notes as gardenia and jasmine, but they are lovely. If I *really* sniff hard, there's a tiny bit of soapiness for me. The florals are slowly replaced by sandalwood in the early dry down, which makes the composition begin to feel lighter, like replacing a thick wool scarf with a cashmere scarf. 

Later in the drydown there's a lightly chewy, black licorice-y note. Usually I hate black licorice, but here it seems to just add texture to the vanilla rather than scent or overpower it, so I don't mind. The black licorice note reminds me a little bit of Un Bois Vanille, but BFMV isn't nearly as sweet.

And then there's the super late drydown. This part of BFMV is completely awesome in it's own right. Though the earlier stages of BFMV aren't super gourmandy on me, the late drydown smells like hot cocoa and s'mores. A touch of cocoa, a touch of vanilla, a little powdery graham cracker... Yum. It's the first time BFMV presents as sweet - but not overly so. I probably couldn't handle a strong overtly s'more from-the-get-go scent, but in the soft drydown, it's perfect. And it is enjoyable for a long time because the longevity of BFMV is really great - it lasts at least 24 hours on my skin. 

BFMV has usurped Eau Duelle to land in my top 3 favorite vanilla scents (along with Vanille Galante and Orchidee Vanille). Some may be able to wear BFMV year round, however vanilla (in general) feels a little heavy for me when the temps are up. As such, I think Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is especially wonderful on chilly fall/winter days. 

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My rating of Black Flower Mexican Vanilla: 4

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5
   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Black Flower Mexican Vanilla as described by the Dame Perfumery website:  "The composition is vanilla absolute with touches of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka - but the ingredient list is less important than the final blend. " 

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Have you tried Black Flower Mexican Vanilla or any other Dame Perfumery scents?


*sample of BFMV originally obtained through Olfactif, but I also received a sampler set from the perfumer himself, Jeffrey Dame. Like all of my reviews, the review of BFMV was objective and unbiased, however I feel compelled to mention how sweet and generous Jeffrey is. His passion is truly to share perfume with the world. Very very reasonably priced samples and bottles are available at his website, and he has a free postcard sample program as well.

10 comments:

  1. Hello Sun!
    You have a lot on your plate! (My son needed me, too, to fall asleep!)
    Glad you found another vanilla you adore. I have never heard of that line. Are you going to try any more from them?

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    1. Hi Carol! It's sweet when they want to lay with you, but seriously - I can't ever get anything done!! I have several more samples from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale, both purchased and received from Jeffrey. I look forward to trying and writing about them all! Several of the perfume samples that I recently received are very light and feminine, which will be perfect for the spring. Are you still in a sample moratorium?

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    2. I think that when my son was little, I wasn't able to finish watching a 30 minute TV show or a book until he was in school!!
      I am still in my sample moratorium - though it is so very difficult, I'm proud of myself. Which reminds me, today is Monday and I need to pull something out of my stash and test it! Have a good week, Sun! x

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  2. What a great review, Sun! I'm actually going to see Jeffrey Dame (along with Andy Tauer) at Tigerlily SF this weekend, so I have been scouring the internet looking for any reviews or info about this line. you definitely make his vanilla sound amazing! I loooove vanilla but, I'm not a big fan of licorice either, so I'm happy to read that it's not very overpowering. Can't wait to get my nose on this!!

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    1. Erika have fun!! From what I can tell, Jeffrey is super nice - I wish I could meet him! You'll definitely find some great perfumes, I'd love to hear what you try and what you think of them!

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    2. And if you like rose, do sniff out desert rose as well - it is quite lovely!

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    3. And if you like rose, do sniff out desert rose as well - it is quite lovely!

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  3. I recently discovered - and fell in love with this one - when Blacknall of aperfumeblog sent it to me as part of a pot luck set of samples. I may also like it more than Eau Duelle now, which is saying something. It is so easy to wear - not too much of one thing or another. In the light of your beautiful review, I feel I want to retry this and see what other notes I can spot. Oh, and I didn't even know about the Jeffrey Dame connection!

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    1. Hi Vanessa! Wow - sorry it took me so long to respond to your comment. I agree completely that BFMV is so easy to wear! As much as I really like Eau Duelle, sometimes the citrus gets me, but I never find that problem with BFMV. I have several other Jeffrey Dame samples to try, have you tried any others??

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  4. Good review. Mexican perfumes are really unique. They offer a wide range of natural fragrances. In Valladolid´s coqui coqui tulum they also have unique fragrances that have been used from a very long time and still remain luxurious.

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